Sunday, June 15, 2008

Boat Winterization Services and Charges, Part I

If you own a boat maintenance business you may have considered what your charges should be and what the boat owners are willing to pay. Here are some thoughts on the type of charges and services you should consider.

Basic Services You Can Offer:

Outboards 1-25 Hp $ 40.00, Above 25 Hp $75.00

Change Gear Oil

Add Fuel Stabilizer

Start, Run and Fog Engine

Grease Fittings

Drain Fuel System

Spray Power Head with WD-40

Inboards $60.00-100.00 Single Engine, $100.00-150.00 for Twins

Oil Change

Change Gear Oil

Add Fuel Stabilizer

Start, Run and Fog Engine(s)

Drain Block and Manifolds, Fill with Non-Toxic Anti-Freeze

Grease All Fittings

Disconnect Battery

Check All Systems

Sprinkle Rock Salt Near Bilge Drain Plugs

Wipe Down Engine(s) with WD-40

Acid Wash Bottom (Out of Water):

$50.00 to $75.00 for small boats up to 22 feet

$75.00 to $$100.00 for 22 to 27 foot boats

$100.00 to $125.00 for 28 to 33 foot boats

Additional Winterization (at a per hour fee): $55.00 per hour

Some Franchisees Charge Simply by the Foot: $14.00-17.00 per foot

It is important to pay special attention to:

Bilge pump

Batteries

Sanitation system

Fresh water tanks

Main engines and generators

Canvas covers

Docking lines

Power cords

Deck gear

Fuel tanks

Cabin

Sailing yachts

Sail covers

Roller furling gear

Deck hardware

Dock box (give it a wash or shine it up before you go, customers will love it)

Bilge Pumps:

Check the operation of all your automatic bilge pumps. Trip the float switches by hand or better yet flush out the bilge with fresh water. This will also get rid of any stagnant water. Then after pumping out as much water as possible pour one to three cups of chlorine in to keep long standing water from smelling. If the boat doesn’t have automatic bilge pumps, suggest to the owner that they be installed and refer the work to a professional.

Batteries:

Check fluid levels. Remember fully charged batteries will not freeze. Top them off and remember to protect your eyes from splashing. Use terminal cleaner or a wire brush and coat with an anti-corrosive compound. Petroleum jelly prevents rust. Another option is for the boat owner to take them home, in this case advise him to trickle charge them every 30-60 days.

Sanitation System:

Pump out and rinse holding tanks three times. After cleaning add holding tank blue treatment chemical to eliminate odors. Close the head discharge, through-hull ball valve and raw water supply valve. Pour a small amount of chlorine bleach into any standing sea water in the head itself to eliminate the formation of bacterial growth and odor. Add a little anti-freeze such as Starbrite ‘Bio-Safe’ Anti-Freeze and pump it through hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Check owner’s manual to make sure there are no other parts which need tending to. Make sure to check and see if your anti-freeze is alcohol based because it will not damage the system.

Water Heaters:

Put some non-toxic anti-freeze into the heater and make sure assembly and plumbing is surely fastened and secure.

Through Hull Openings:

With a screwdriver or similar tool, poke up inside each opening. Make sure there is no marine growth left on the inside.

Fresh Water Tanks:

Pump them dry and add some bleach and non-toxic anti-freeze to the system. Always use Propylene Gycol anti-freeze and not engine type anti-freeze. Refill and pump them dry again. Be sure to turn off the pressure pump. Isolate hot water by disconnecting the in and out lines. Some do not make noise when the fresh water tanks are empty. Make sure to also check faucets, sinks, shower stall drains, etc.

Lance Winslow - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/

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